24 Hours around the Middle East

Friday morning started with some uncertainty. Went to bed on Thursday evening to the sound of gunfire and RPG grenades so it was obvious that things were escalating rather than quietening down. Our colleagues in the local office had started the week with cautious assurances that it was just another week in Beirut but by Wednesday afternoon, that had all changed.

On Wednesday evening, an option to take motorbike to the airport (leaving our luggage behind) was explored and would have involved handing ourselves over the Hizbullah contacts at the roadblock nearest the airport. By Thursday morning, that was no longer a consideration as the fighting had escalated seriously. Plan C was to look at options to get to Cyprus but that was ruled out as nobody was willing to take a boat out and no ferries were scheduled. The fireworks display on Thursday evening convinced both myself and my colleague from Geneva that it was time to make for Syria if that could be arranged.

So, Friday morning, second cup of tea and a call from the local office - pack and be ready in 20 minutes. A taxi driver had been found and was willing to take us to Damascus. The calm that the local team and our customer had shown in the previous days was now replaced with a genuine concern for what was happening and the safety of their visitors (this sums up the Lebanese people, more concerned about our safety than theirs). So, we with hard handshakes and nervous goodbyes, we took our leave of our Lebanese colleagues and the bank's CIO. See you in Geneva in three weeks - well, maybe !

Milan, the man we were now placing our safety with, turned out to be a hero. The journey started with regular checks of the local radio stations to hear the latest status on the road situation (closed or open?) but was soon replaced by calls to our colleagues to get more accurate information as the situation was changing by the minute. First stop was at a Lebanese army checkpoint where we were searched (professionally) and wished well. My mother calling the middle and Kevin's camera on the back seat of the car were the only minor headaches!

Next stop Tripoli. We gathered at a bypass layby along with other taxis who were 'breaking for the border'. Some discussions while we watched a convoy that was parked parallel with some very heavy weapons - the local police were not impressed but little they could do about the display of weapons. Then a decision, the road is closed - no going forward. Milan decides that it's best to head back to Beirut, we check with our colleagues to explore options. An uncle of one of the local staff worked for the police in Triploi - he's contacted and he meets us. Try again - if we don't get out today, it won't be possible after this evening. Ok then - let's try again. This time we make it to a major junction before becoming snarled in traffic. Roadblock ahead, we were sitting and waiting when something gives - lots of well armed men started running in the direction of the road block - we head in the opposite direction along with most of the other cars.

Another option is required - a suggestion of a mountain route is explored but a four wheel drive is required - let's find one - hell, it's only money ! But on further enquiry, the route is considered dangerous (relative to what but if it's considered dangerous, then it must be). So back to Beirut? Let's try again - this time, timing is everything - the Lebanese army had just cleared the road and we could make it through that roadblock. You can now tell the role of the Lebanese army, sitting in the middle, helping to provide temporary solutions. Almost immediately, you could see people starting to block the road again but we were through. Later in the weekend, we hear of some terrible fighting and 10 deaths in Tripoli.

Next was the Palestinian Settlement that was raided by the Lebanese army last year to collect the stock of weapons they had. This section of the road was clear as it was heavily protected by the army. The settlement is now in ruins - the attack there was massive and the destruction total. We pass by and head to our next challange. We are told that Milan cannot make the journey to Syria and we have to explore other options - he can get us to the border, road conditions permitting but he can't get us further. More calls, more plans hatched.

Then another roadblock - this one is serious. Hundreds milling around, some with weapons but mostly young kids. We explore options through Milan but the impression is that we have no chance of getting through. Then, two Lebanese police men step in, negotiate and we are permitted to pass through the roadblock. They escort us further towards the border and we start to worry about the options once we get to Syria.

Then Milan becomes the star again - he arranges for a Syrian driver to take us across to Damascus - can this chap be the real deal? Well, with very limited choices, we agree and hold our breath. First things first, we need to get exit stamps on our passports - the Syrian chap immediately steps into action and it appears to knows everyone at the border post. We struck gold - he does know everyone - things happen without our involvement, visas are issued, problems dealt with and we are given the bill. One could use this guy elsewhere in the world. Of course, a car has four seats and three were occupied so he manages to pick up another person enroute who also needs to get to Damascus - we were not complaining..........

Until he started to drive - 160km an hour for the next three hours ....... no seat belts in the car so Kevin and I chat about anything, BPEL, Oracle Fusion, long finger nails... anything to ignore the fact that we were inches from death on a number of occasions. Damascus arrived quickly (even if it was 250 kms away!). Hotel is fine apart from the fact only one room is available. A short night, we're in Damascus airport at 5.45am to catch a flight to Jordon and then hope to change our flights to catch the earliest to Dubai. All runs smoothly and that evening I'm joining Royal Brunei back to Bandar ........

Next day - no rest - Maria has me running through the Jungle on the Nash hash - but I'm sure she can tell you more about that.......